Edit: Unfortunately, the images originally included in this post are gone, because of hosting problems in late 2009. My apologies.
That KDEmod desktop I was hunting works well on the small Thinkpad, with about the same performance as a minimal Gnome system.
It’s a lot easier to adjust how I like, and the end result is prettier than Gnome is for me. Gnome has its own feel, and KDE is a different style altogether. I don’t think I like either one in particular, but it’s nice to see them working this well on a machine this old.